American Paradise (Part 2 of 17)
February 16th, 2008(This entire 17-part story can be found in the “travel” category.)
Returning to the boat with my gear, I climbed aboard. It turned out that the big guy was the captain, hired to take the yacht from Connecticut to St. Thomas. The little guy was the first mate. The two of them hired out to move yachts for millionaires, and each knew exactly what his duties were on the ship. They worked well together.
The boat was a 68-foot wooden Hatteras yacht, if memory serves me correct. It had two diesel engines each over 1,000 cubic inches. There were five bedrooms, three bathrooms, and a huge living room. It was luxury exemplified. The pilot house had two humongous captain’s chairs, each affording a fantastic view of the waters ahead.
The captain gave me my choice of the three unoccupied bedrooms, and I chose the one in the front of the boat. It had it’s own bathroom, as well. The “fore cabin”, I believe these lifelong sailors called this suite. I “stowed” my gear (I’m getting the hang of this nautical lingo, huh?), then came up on deck to drink a few beers with them and get acquainted.
I didn’t sleep well that night. The chigger bites were driving me crazy. By morning, I had streaks of dried blood all over my lower legs. I just couldn’t stop scratching. Jeepers!
The captain had delegated one chore for me each day - I was to wash the windshield of the pilot room. I climbed up with windex and a roll of paper towels and in 10 minutes or so the salt water stains were gone. Before we “shoved off”, the captain assigned another task for the first mate and me to tackle - go buy beer. “Get whatever you want,” he said. With visions of Heineken dancing in my head, we walked up the street and stocked up.
We headed south down the Intercoastal Waterway atop the steady rumble of the ship’s engines. We exited North Carolina in an hour or so, entering South Carolina. The calm waters made for great sailing. I sat up on the roof deck with the first mate, binoculars at our side to spot wildlife and interesting small port towns. The day passed quickly as we cruised the calm waters.
One 30-mile stretch that was particularly beautiful was through Francis Marion State Forest. The hanging Spanish moss from cypress trees projecting “knees” above the waterline had an eerie charm, a feeling of “Gone with the Wind” southern ambiance.
Our uplifted feelings soon vanished when we approached Isle of Palms. Hurricane Hugo had cut a swath through the area, leaving hundreds of acres of trees nothing but twisted stumps and piles of brush. We rounded one turn in the IW and witnessed the fury of the hurricane. There was a pile of boats - at least 75 or 100 - that rose 60-feet in the air. A lot of people’s broken dreams were in that pile of debris.
We found a marina at Isle of Palms to dock for the night. In the ship’s store, the marina owners told tales of the powerful hurricane. It had only came through two weeks prior, so the expressionless looks on their faces needed no explanation. They were still in shock.
As we talked, I ambled over to the first aid aisle. Calamine lotion and cottonballs were on my mind. My arms and lower legs were a mess. Leaving the store, I showered and covered myself in calamine. The captain and first mate got a big kick of me and my misery as we walked into a nearby restaurant, my pink-caked arms hanging from my side.
- Mountain Man








